Day 63: Cicada Chorus

Hiked 21.9 miles, tenting at Punchbowl shelter.

The morning today was mostly spent descending to and crossing the James River.  We had one tough 500 foot climb, but overall it was one long 3000 foot descent.  Matt's Creek shelter was on the way down and was a really nice shelter.  Aside from having a nice shelter, good tenting, and a great privy it also had a large stream next to it that was prefect for swimming.  It's too bad we hit it so early in the day.

Looking down on the Petites River Valley

You can just barely see the FAA tower on the top of Apple Orchard Mountain

9 AM photo

Normally on the AT we always cross perpendicularly any stream we come across.  This because most big rivers are in valleys and we only descend to lower altitudes to climb another mountain.  There are very few times that we get to walk along the banks of a stream or river and today was one of those lucky days.  For about three miles we followed first Matt's Creek until it dumped into the James river, and then followed that before crossing it and heading back upstream of another tributary of the James River.  It was great to walk along listen to the water rushing downstream.

Lizard!

Somebody added eyes to this facelike tree!

Crossing the James River was neat as well.  Normally the AT crosses big rivers like this using car bridges as they were conveniently already there when the AT was laid out.  Rarely do we have a foot bridge like today that is dedicated to AT foot traffic.  In fact the crossing of the James River is the longest foot traffic only bridge on the entire trail.  On the far side of the bridge on the beach was a huge pack of Monarch butterflies sunning themselves, it was pretty cool to see.


Approaching the James River bridge



Info about the James River foot bridge

About to cross the James River foot bridge

Up on the bridge

The James River

The other new thing for today was that for the first time we heard the cacophony of cicadas.  The cicada goes through a cycle and every 17 years they hatch in massive numbers to mate.  This is that year in the 17 year cycle.  Up until now I think it had either been too early in the spring or too high an altitude that we haven't heard them.  Today though they were chirping very loudly.  It kind of sounds like an ambulance is running it's siren right next to the trail all day.  Cicadas are huge too with big red eyes and are hard to miss.  They are all over the trail, both alive and dead.  For now I'm enjoying it, but I'm sure it will get old quickly.

Monarch butterflies

It's a party!

Closeup shot

After crossing the James River (at 600 feet), we had to climb back up to 3000 feet in the span of two miles.  This was the tough climb of the day.  We were rewarded with a great view of where we came from the last few days though including the James River.  The sun was beating down all day and it was hot out. 

We've come a long way!

On top of Little Rocky Row, looking back from whence we came

View from Big Rocky Row

The viewpoint on Big Rocky Row was a great place to sit, rehydrate and relax.  After this we had another shorter climb up Bluff Mountain which sticks way up above everything around it and affords an excellent view of the area.

On top of Bluff Mountain

View from Bluff Mountain

View from Bluff Mountain

On the top of Bluff Mountain is a memorial to Ottie Cline Powell.  This is a four year old child who back in 1891 wandered away while collecting firewood at school and presumably got lost.  His body was found 7 miles away on the top of Bluff Mountain.  While it's a sad story, it is also pretty incredible that a four year old child could walk 7 miles up a steep mountain like that!

Ottie Cline Powell memorial on top of Bluff Mountain

The shelter is just downhill from the peak of Bluff Mountain.  It is a decent shelter though it is right next to a stagnant pond and the bugs are awful.  I am cozy and bug free inside my tent though so it is all good.  The cicadas are climbing all over the sides of everyone's tents too.  It is amazing how many there are.  You definitely don't want to leave your tent door open!